Against The Odds

First let me say that the first part of this entry is incredibly boring geology stuff, but I'm going somewhere with this, so bear with me. If you just can't take it, skip the next paragraph.

Geologists tell us that after creation, the land of Israel was a very peaceful place. This is because it was about 500 meters under water at the bottom of the sea. Moving tectonic plates under the sea floor crashed into a fig tree on what is now the sidewalk on Bashar Blvd. in downtown Damascus, and as a result of the collision the sea bed was pushed up much in the way the front end of a '72 Corvette piles up on a telephone pole. Until this time, fish and sea horses had been defecating and dying on the bottom of the sea and the debris had hardened into limestone and a kind of soft chalk stone half a kilometer or so deep. Unfortunately, the earth's crust was damaged when all this happened. The newly formed mainland split in two forming the Syrian-African Rift, and both halves started moving in opposite directions. Molten magma forced to the planet surface started erupting all over the place, covering the chalk and limestone with hundreds of meters of lava flows, volcanic debris and silica. Personally, I don't believe a word of this, but this is what geologists say and since I wasn't there at the time, I'm in no position to challenge them.

One person that could challenge the geologists is Marvin the Canaanite. One morning 5000 years ago he woke up, emerged from his Early Bronze Age house on the Golan Heights and was walking his goat when a wave of lava washed into the village, destroying his home and drowning his goat. We know this because the goat's bones were found next to the remains of Marvin's house.

Marvin left the area never to return. His descendants eventually immigrated to the U.S., certain that they had finally found a peaceful place where their quiet lives would never be disturbed by the forces of nature. Some of them live in New Orleans and others settled in the Pacific Northwest in a tranquil hamlet at the foot of Mount St. Helens. They were last heard of in 1980.

(Photo of Mt St. Helens, May 18, 1980)

Meanwhile a new bunch of people moved to the Golan in the Chalcholithic Period. They didn't actually live there – it was where they spent their vacations. The remains of their holiday cottages can be found about 50 meters to your right when you turn off the main road to Moshav Yonaton. You won't find graves at this spot – duh. Like, they were on vacation. Besides, as one of the Chalcholithic old timers used to say, "Bad enough I wasted my vacations here: I'll be danged if I let them bury me here." Apparently there wasn't a lot to do save doodle on the basalt rocks, which is how the place – Ras el Harbush ("Strange scribbling" in Arabic.) – got its name for the strange markings Chalcholiths made when they got bored.

(Travelers note: If your guide takes you to see Ras el Harbush, you can be pretty sure you've managed to piss off somebody. I asked Nir, our guide, why he decided to take us to Ras el Harbush. He shrugged. "Miron (Our course director) just said, 'Whatever you do, make sure to take them to Ras el Harbush.'")
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Now while we were on our way to the next historic site, we were wondering where the Chalcholiths buried their dead and noticed a lot of strange rock formations scattered all over. These are ancient burial sites. The Early Bronze Age people would stand up two big boulders on end and put a third one on top. They called this a "dolman". When they were in a hurry, they piled a bunch of rocks on the body (hopefully dead). This was called a "tumulus". Sometimes they just cleared away the stones to make a holiday village or something. This is called "a pile of rocks".
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Over the years erosion has carved gullies and ravines into the layers of lava and the soft chalk below. When this happens,the chalk underneath is washed away and the basalt rock above breaks off, leaving cliffs that drop off sharply into the wadis below. Sometimes narrow rock outcroppings remain where two wadis meet, with cliffs forming natural fortifications on three or more sides. One of these places was chosen as the site of a fortress town, first by the Seleucids and later by the Maccabees. It's called 'Gamla' because the narrow hump like hill the town was built on resembles a camel's hump (Gamal is camel in Hebrew.)

In 66 A.D. the Jews in the Galilee and Golan revolted against their Roman rulers. The good people of Gamla fortified the northern approach into town by reinforcing the exterior walls and filling in rooms of houses on the city limits. They were pretty happy with themselves, especially when the Roman governor showed up with a posse and tried to starve them out, and when this didn't work tried to take the town by force only to get his butt soundly kicked.
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Nir the guide was explaining this when someone pointed out that I was standing smack on top of a hornets' nest in a crack in the rocks. This gave me food for thought. My first thought was how glad I was that I wear long pants even on hot summer days, otherwise the hornets would have flown clean up my pant legs and stung me where the sun don't shine. The other thing that occurred to me was how more often than not something random happens on these field trips that symbolize the place we're visiting. Because the story of Gamla is how a small country town managed to stir up a hornets' nest.

When the Roman governor came back with mud on his face, the Romans applied that old adage that what you can't do with force, you can do with even more force. They showed up at Gamla with 3 legions, which if you count legionaries, archers, servants, cooks and camp followers amounts to about 40,000 to 50,000 men. This was about 4 Romans per each Gamlan; man, woman and child.

The Gamlans were never very bright, so they thought they could beat the odds against them. And at first it seemed rightly so. The Roman general Vespasian broke through the walls with a battering ram and the legionaries burst in, but for once typically poor Israeli city planning played to the defenders favor. The town was built on a steep slope, the city street in front of one row of houses being the roofs of the houses in the row below. Of course, the Gamlans had never built to code, so when hundreds of soldiers started racing down the street, the roofs collapsed under the weight. Vespasian barely managed to make an exit with his life.

In the end, substandard building practices were the Gamlans' undoing. One night a few legionnaires got bored with the siege and snuck up to the round tower that dominated the fortifications. They were fooling around and dislodged a few stones at the base of the tower and the whole dang thing came tumbling down! Like soldiers every where, the legionnaires' natural instinct was to not take responsibility for their tomfoolery, but just as they were making their getaway who should limp up but ol' Vespasian nursing a bum leg from the roof collapsing incident.

"What are you fools doin' wandering around in the dark? Why don't you come and help me figure out how to break into Gamla?", asked Vespasian.
"Well, as a matter of fact, we just got done pulling down the tower.", said Tumulus the legionnaire.
"Good save.", whispered Tumulus' friend Dolman.

Vespasian, never one to be taken in by his men, insisted on seein' it for himself. Sure enough, no tower! First thing the next morning Vespasian sent his son Titus into the city with some cavalry with orders: Do not ride on the roofs! Titus thought his dad was being a bit overprotective and that his order of the day was a bit odd, but nevertheless promised to not ride on the roof. In no time the Romans were kicking butt and the defenders were forced back to some rock cliffs at the top part of town. At this point the Gamlans didn't have many options. They could either try their luck with the Roman forces coming up through town, or with the force of gravity. It was about 50-50, but none of those who tried to fight off the legionnaires nor those that jumped over the cliff survived.

Today Gamla is the Golan's "lover's leap". Young star-crossed lover go there when their folks won't let them get married. Usually one glance over the edge of the cliff gives them second thoughts and they decide to just shack up together.

Our next stop was another fortress town in the southern part of the Golan called Sussita in Hebrew, or Hippos in Greek. (Both names mean "horse" in their respective languages. I noticed that they named cities after beasts of burden back then. I'm certain that if archeologists look hard enough they will find another town called "Hamor", Hebrew for "jackass".) Sussita was quite a bit better off than her poor cousin Gamla, probably due to the fertile farmland on the bluffs overlooking her and the narrow shore of the Sea of Galilee below. Remarkably, the farmland in this part of the Golan is almost free of rocks, despite the fact that it sits on a bed of basalt like the rest of the Golan. Nir the guide claims that this is due to the volcanic rock being dissolved by the elements over time. I think there might be another explanation. The farmers in the south were shrewd businessmen. They knew that further north there was always a good market for stones, what with them building dolmans and tumulus and chucking rocks at Gamla and all, so they would plow up their fields, let the Romans and Bronze Agers gather up the rocks for a modest fee a come out richer for it both ways. Just a thought……

What ever the case may be, Sussita fared better than Gamla, mainly because she didn't mess with the Romans. Having a Gentile majority probably had a lot to do with this. In fact, things were going so well for Sussita that they decided to make it the county seat and turn it into a full blown Roman city, starting by calling it Hippos and joining the 10 city league called the Decapolis. There was one little problem, namely that being on the top of a hill they didn't have a source of running water. Fortunately, the Romans were never ones to let Jews or the law of gravity get in their way. They built an aqueduct from a nearby spring, and then a watertight pipe system made up of pipes made of solid stone that transported water down the slope opposite the city gate and then up into the city with hydrostatic pressure. Hippos/Sussita was never very big, but it was an attractive city with water fountains and beautiful temples (later churches) complete with huge marble columns that some how were hauled up the mountain and then over the walls. Very impressive.

It occurred to me that the Romans were an arrogant bunch. They weren't to be stopped by anyone or anything, not even the forces of nature. A bit like Americans that a build major port city like New Orleans below sea level. I think there's a moral here. In the end, Nature won. In 749 a major earthquake leveled the city and its ostentatious building and cut its water supply. The Arabs who were masters of the land by then decided that it wasn't practical to rebuild Hippos/Sussita and it was abandoned never to be rebuilt. There's a lesson here for Americans: the Romans' technological achievements lasted only 700 years.

Food for thought....

The last chapter of Sussita's story was in 1948 when some kibbutznikim from Ein Gev took control of the hilltop, turning it into a forward outpost on the Syrian-Israeli border where both sides took potshots at each other until the Six Day War in 1967 when Israel conquered the Golan Heights.

Geologists tell us that one day the land of Israel will be once again as peaceful as it was a million or so years ago when it was under the sea. They say the Syrian-African Fault is moving and an ocean being born under the Sea of Galilee. If we are only patient, one day there will be peace between Israel and her neighbors because Israel will be on one side and the Syrians will be on the other shore and it won't make sense to fight. All we have to do is wait a million years or so.

So Mr. Obama is right after all: there is hope for peace in the Middle East.

By All Means

"I am made all things to all men, that I might by all means save some." (I Corinthians 9:22)

It is little known that nearly a full century before Theodor Herzl wrote "Der Judenstaat" (The Jewish State), a group of Evangelical Anglicans (which apparently is not an oxymoron) called the London Society for Promoting Christianity Amongst the Jews were promoting the idea of a Jewish homeland in the land of Israel in anticipation of the Second Coming.


Fortunately for the Christian dreamers of Zion, in England the head of the church is also head of state and it was only natural that religion oil the wheels of Empire and visa versa. Patronage of the Jewish community in the Ottoman province of Palestine was both the pretext and modus operandi of British intervention in Turkish internal affairs in the Middle East, while the LSPCAJ lobbied for the venture at home.

The Ottoman firman permitting a British consul within the walls of Old Jerusalem paved the way for the Mission. The church was allowed as a personal chapel for the consul, although proportionally this was like strapping the engine of a 747 on a VW Bug and calling it a turbo. Since the British compound is due west of the Temple Mount, the church faces the rising sun as prescribed by Christian tradition, but like a synagogue the direction of worship is also towards the Holy of Holies. In order to disarm Jewish suspicions, there are no crucifixes or images in the sanctuary (Although cleverly, the church itself is built in the shape of a cross.) Instead, verses from the Old and New Testament written in Hebrew adorn the alter and an ark.












While those Pre Zionist English dreamers didn't live to see the fruits of their labors, they played an important part in its cultivation. They promoted Jewish settlement in the city and in the development of the modern neighborhoods outside the walls in West Jerusalem. For more than a century and a half there has been a Jewish majority in Jerusalem.


And while the dream of a Jewish state is today a reality, the vision of a mass conversion of Israel failed to appear. Well, almost. Today Christ Church is primarily a guest house, but its still a church. Messianic Jews use the sanctuary on Shabbat, sanctuary in both its meanings as within the walls of the compund it is most likely one of the few places they can meet without interference. And I understand that there is a regular English service (Mass?) held there on Sundays. Our second night there, a small group of Christian Arabs met in the patio under our window. I knew they were worshiping from the sound of hymns, even though I didn't understand the words in Arabic.
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A friend of mine, an Anglican, once told me that their religion is Catholic in practice and their faith pivots on obedience. A fresh convert, 'saved' from her Evangelical upbringing, she painted her new religion in black and white. It seems to me that the Anglican Church is able to change color like a chameleon, turning its skin to fit circumstance. I'm sure that obedience is the rule for followers, but expedience is the keyword for their leaders.

I am not the one to judge if Christ Church was the product of cynical statesmen or a sincere attempt to bridge the gap between Christians and Jews. I suspect it was a little of both.


Christ Church is one of my favorite places. The compound with hidden gardens and the rooms with the original stone floors and domed ceilings; waking in the early hours to the sounds of church bells and Muslim calls to prayer in the old city – it takes you back to 19th century Jerusalem and somehow the experience feels more authentic than in more modern accommodations.




















Christ Church belongs to a bygone age, born out of the politics of Empire and not so Catholic currents in the Anglican stream. It is an anomaly; unlike any other church of its day, and an island of tranquility in a city known for turmoil. It is certainly worth a visit.

(First posted at My People)